Local Guide

Welcome to Creag na h-Iolaire

These pages contain information about local attractions, things to do, places to eat, and information about the area. We should begin however, by saying that a stay in the house is part of the attraction of being here, and you would not be remiss if you did not venture far at all. Sometimes the best kind of holiday is to allow time to rest, recover, and disconnect from the outside world. We believe we have created a very special sanctuary that enables you to do this, to be immersed in the beautiful wildscapes beyond, and to enjoy the cinematic majesty of the loch and Torridon mountains in all their seasons, and whatever the prevailing weather.

Shieldaig was established in the early 1800’s to raise and train sailors for the Napoleonic wars. It was believed by the Admiralty that young persons who made their living on and by the sea would readily transition to naval service. Napoleon was defeated however before the local folk were called to action and the village became more of a fishing hub which it would remain for many years. The fortunes of the local people, including the highlanders who were principally settled in Annat after the clearances, ebbed and flowed over the decades depending on the ownership and interests of the various lairds of the surrounding estates. It follows that the village and nearby lands have been accustomed to hardship and isolation, with many settlements in the area only accessible by boat. Using the spotting scope you will be able to locate several houses on the northern side of the loch which can only be accessed on foot or over water. Before Torridon and Shieldaig were connected by the road that exists today, the only way to communicate by carriage or vehicle was via Lochcarron, Achnasheen and Kinlochewe, a distance of 68 miles. The coast road around the Applecross peninsula is also a relatively recent addition (you can see a plaque commemorating the opening of the road on a rock monument near the junction with the A896.) Before this was built, a rough vehicular track connected the settlements on the southern shores of lochs Shieldaig and Torridon, but the only way to reach Applecross by land was via the precipitous Bealach na Ba, Scot’s Gaelic for the Pass of the Cattle. This was frequently cut off in the winter months and you can imagine that local life must have been very hard indeed.

Nonetheless, the area has always been renowned for its beauty, and for the majesty of the Torridon mountains. Queen Victoria is said to have loved to travel the road between Torridon and Diabaig and noted with incredulity in her diary that, “no one ever comes here.” Ben Damph house (now The Torridon hotel,) completed in 1887, is decorated in homage to the Golden Jubilee of her reign and her visits to the area.

Today, the area is more frequently visited than in Victoria’s time, but remains less well known than the typically iconic highland tourist destinations of Glencoe, Loch Ness, Fort William and Skye. We believe the area is better for it however, and those who know about Torridon and Applecross feel as though they’ve been let in on a great secret, and they come back time after time. Whether it is walking, climbing, wildlife watching, touring, or just being in the west highlands among the mountains and sea lochs, the area always has something new to offer.

You can read more about the geological and natural history of the area in the book: Torridon, the nature of the place, a copy of which you will find in the bookshelves. There is also a larger format book titled Shieldaig which gives further insight to the area.

For further information about the history of the area, Steve Carter has written a detailed account on his website.

For detailed information about Torridon Gaelic place names and their english meaning, an interactive map can be accessed here. This invaluable resource gives great insight into the practical relationship of early highlanders with their surroundings and environment.

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If you only want to get out and about for a couple of days during your visit or the weather is less forgiving, here is a short collection of highlights that we would recommend to any first time visitor to the area.

Bealach na Ba and Applecross

The round trip drive from the house around the coast road in either direction (we prefer anti-clockwise) is one of the finest scenic routes in the country. The views across the loch from the hills above Ardheslaig are spectacular on a fine day and and once you round the northern end of the peninsular and head southwards towards Applecross, you will be rewarded with quite different yet similarly spectacular views across to Rona, Raasay and Skye, including the Cuillin hills. You will also likely find some farmed highland cattle along this road.

As you near Applecross, Sand beach is worth a look for a stroll or a swim if it is hot and Applecross itself has a terrific pub, the Applecross Inn, and the Walled Garden Cafe & Restaurant. From here you can head up and over the Bealach na Ba (pass of the cattle) which is the highest vehicular road pass in Britain, and then descend the exciting series of hairpin bends and single track to reach Kishorn at the bottom. This is a stretch of road that has helped make the NC500 route famous and you will know why once you experience it. Head north on the A896 towards Shieldaig and back to the house. With stops along the way and a meal, this route is an excellent day out.

Shieldaig to Diabaig with lunch at Gille Brighde

Diabaig is a hidden gem and is located at the end of a cul de sac on the opposite side of the loch. The drive takes in the scenic section of road between Shieldaig and Annat (photo stops recommended) and then continues to Torridon. Torridon has a store and the Wee Whistle Stop Cafe, but for a full lunch or dinner outing we recommend booking at Gille Brighde in Diabaig which is very popular during the high season. Along the way there are several small settlements which you can stop off at for a diversion, including Alligin and Wester Alligin. There are several short walks along this stretch of coast line. To reach Diabaig you will go up and over a pass and then descend steeply past the triple loch and into Diabaig itself. Diabaig (Deep Bay) is a natural deep water harbour carved into the rock by glacial action thousands of years ago, but the bay is open to northwesterly storms and swells from the Minch so it was abandoned as a working port in favour of Shieldaig for that reason.

Whiskey Bar at The Torridon

The Torridon, previously Ben Damph house, is a boutique Victorian era lodge and their Whiskey bar has over 350 malts and about 120 gins to choose from including a local distillation of the hotel’s own crafting.

Shieldaig Village

Shieldaig is a delightful village with plenty of character. On a fine day stop in at the Shieldaig Bar and Coastal Kitchen, grab a pint and sit outside in the sunshine looking out over Shieldaig island where you might see the white tailed eagles fly from their nest, or some seals or otters in the water. There is an easy walk on the Shieldaig peninsular of about 4km which starts from behind the school. The locally famous Nanny’s cafe is also open seasonally for breakfast, lunch and tea/coffee/cake and we highly recommend a visit here.

Longer Walks and Hill Climbs

If you’re feeling more adventurous there are several walks which give a very authentic experience of the highland glens and mountains. One of the most rewarding in the area is the walk to Loch Coire Mhic Fhearchair where you can view the clear emerald water of the loch and the impressive triple buttresses of Beinn Eighe. This walk begins at the Beinn Eighe carpark. It’s a 7km hike to the loch in the coire and the track passes between the giants of Liathach and Beinn Eighe, rising gently up to 600m above sea level, however the trail is nowhere difficult. If you continue around the edge of the loch you can find the wreckage from an RAF Lancaster bomber which tragically crashed into the mountain in the 1950’s. It’s best to start this walk early, as the car park is very popular with walkers and campervans throughout the year.

A more demanding but very scenic walk is the Beinn Damph track which starts from just behind the Torridon. You can park in the area near the Bo and Muc restaurant and then take the path up behind the Torridon. This track rises steadily alongside a gorge through Scot’s pine forest and eventually breaks out into a high glen before steepening again to ascend the flanks of Beinn Damph. You can stay in the glen by taking the left fork and go as far as the pass between Beinn Damph and Beinn na h-Eaglaise. If you take the right fork, it is reward enough to make it to the saddle in the ridge with fine views to the west and south. If you have the time and energy, continuing south and upwards along the meandering ridge line will eventually see you to the summit of Beinn Damph which is not quite a Munro, but it only just misses out at 903m in height. Alternatively a shorter climb to the north over Meall Gorm to Sgurr na Bana Mhoraire (687m) will reward with northerly views to Alligin and Liathach. This peak has more prominence from the road between Torridon and Shieldaig and can easily be seen from the house just beyond Beinn Shieldaig.

If you’re looking to bag a Munro, Beinn Alligin is an achievable objective accessible by a well trodden stalker’s path. You have the choice of either an out and back to the lower or both Munros, or a circuit in either a clockwise or counterclockwise direction. Park at the Coire Mhic Nobuil carpark and if you’re heading direct to the lower summit or doing the circuit clockwise, the trail starts on the western side of the road bridge. Otherwise cross the bridge and follow the obvious track through the forest and into the glen. The horns of Alligin, which is the prominent triple peak feature of the mountain to the north, are quite precipitous and involve some scrambling (low level rock climbing) although this can be avoided by using the somewhat exposed bypass track on the steep southern slopes. Once you attain the main summit, a meandering but straightforward track roughly follows the ridge line and then rises through a few sections of gentle scrambling to the second Munro, Tom na Gruagaich (Hill of the Maiden.) The track then descends to the south across the broad summit slopes and into a wide coire which takes you straight back down to the car park.

As with all mountains or remote back country walks, you need to be confident of your and your party’s abilities, equipment and capacity to cope with changes in the weather or conditions. Throughout the Spring, the higher reaches of the mountains can still be in icy winter conditions even when it is relatively mild in the glens. Winter conditions require specialist gear including ice axes and crampons as well as familiarity with the use of this equipment. Seek professional assistance if you are determined to climb, but are uncertain about your capabilities or the conditions you might encounter. There are further links below to local guiding operators who can ensure your experience in the mountains is positive and rewarding.

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There are plenty of other things to see and do in the area and we have briefly listed many of those that might be of interest during your stay. We have included links to the vendors’ websites and google map location pins. Whilst comprehensive, this list is by no means exhaustive and we are constantly learning about new things in the area, so if you see something locally that isn’t on this list, it probably just means we haven’t discovered it yet ourselves.

At the house

Enjoy watching the weather in all it’s forms. Best viewed from the house by a roaring fire.

There are usually seals and occasionally otters down on the skerries and in the bay in front of the house.

You might see the white tailed sea eagles flying by if you look out for them. These are beautiful, huge majestic birds. You can find their nest on Shieldaig island using the spotting scope. Take it outside onto the deck for a clearer view and look to the LH edge of the island in the tree tops of the Scots pines. At certain times of the year you might see fledglings perched in the nest. The eagles sometimes fly right by the house at eye level.

At night, or late evening twilight in the summer, keep an eye out for our resident pine marten. They can be very inquisitive if they smell food, but please don’t feed them as this will disrupt their normal feeding habits which may ultimately be harmful to them.

There are binoculars at the house, feel free to take these out with you for the day, but please leave the spotting scope at the house.

More walks and hills

The Walk Highlands website is a fantastic resource for walks of all lengths and ability levels. There are dedicated pages for Torridon, Applecross and Lochcarron. You can use the maps at the house to plan your adventures, but please don’t take these on any hikes. You can purchase your own maps from the store in Shieldaig or Torridon. A couple of other walks that we recommend in addition to the highlights section:

• Walk up the glen between Beinn Alligin and Liathach from Coire MhicNobaill car park. Waterfall and forest walk opening out into beautiful highland glen.

• Short walk along edge of Loch Clair for amazing views and reflection of Liathach on a still day, an iconic scene and much photographed.

• Shorter walk up through the forest behind The Torridon on the Beinn Damph track, lovely walk alongside a gorge breaking out into almost a bonsai forest of Scots pines and heather. Access is the same as mentioned above, starting from Bo and Muc.

• There’s some easy and very scenic walks from the Beinn Eighe nature reserve. These give a different perspective on the area and wonderful views of Loch Maree and Slioch. The nearby Beinn Eighe visitor centre is a great place to learn more about the natural history and environment of the area including the work going on to restore the native woodlands.

• The Kinloch woodland trust which as the land up behind the house through to the A896 road is a re-wilding project and red squirrel reintroduction area. The Scot’s pine forest on the slopes of Beinn Shieldaig is original untouched old Caledonian forest, one of few left in Scotland. There are a couple of short walks here starting from this location.

• There is a fantastic and historic walk from Kenmore to Applecross which starts from the roadside. This was once the only overland access track for foot traffic from the shores of loch Torridon and loch Shieldaig to get to the Applecross settlement. Applecross was the only place with a church so the people from Kenmore, Arrina and nearby had to carry their dead across this path for a proper funeral service and burial. Its a 16km one way trip so can be done as a partial or long out and back, or with a car shuffle if you are two parties. This is also a great trail for mountain biking once you get through the more undulating section at the start. The path has ancient mile markers (some have been replaced with new ones) but these measure Scot’s miles which is the same distance as the Royal Mile in Edinburgh and not the normal imperial mile. Unsurprisingly, Scot’s miles are longer!

Coral Beach Walk near Applecross

Join local guide Kalie Wilkinson on a walk out to the remote coral beaches and two abandoned settlements on the Applecross peninsula. Learn about life there in the past with stories and tales of crofting life. You’ll look for wildlife along the way...seals, otters, deer, eagles, seabirds. Learn about the flora and fauna on the walk and along the seashore. Stop for a hot drink and home baking at the beach looking across the sea to the Isle of Skye and it's towering mountains.

You'll start with an introductory talk before setting off on the 'destitution road' (a track built during the potato famine). You'll learn more about the history of the area. There are also many plants and animals to spot along the walk (binoculars available). There will be more time to ask questions while we enjoy a hot drink and home baking on the beach. A photo folder shows what the 2 abandoned villages looked like in the past. You will walk to the second coral beach before returning to the start of the walk. A rich experience that will give you a glimpse of the past and a close encounter with nature. Duration 2½ - 3 hours and a very good value day out at £20pp. Transport from Arrina available or meet at the Applecross Inn car park. To book, contact Kalie through facebook messenger, or by phone/message on 07952 823004. You can also book via her AirBnB experiences page.

Kalie will be adding further guided walks including the Shieldaig peninsular. Contact her to discuss what might interest you.

Northern lights (Aurora Borealis)and star gazing

Scotland is far enough north to get a good view of the northern lights in certain conditions. The house faces to the northeast with unobstructed views of the northern sky. When there’s a strong aurora, you can watch the show from the house or while lying in bed if the weather is clear. We use the Aurora Watch UK app to get notified when an Aurora is occurring. There are other apps and websites that will predict when an Aurora is likely based on the occurrence of solar flares. Viewing conditions are best from October to March when the nights are longer, but it also has to be clear which can be challenging for Scotland. However when the stars align(!) the Aurora is an incredible site.

The area is a renowned for dark skies suitable for star gazing on clear nights. Our guests have reported seeing incredible views of Jupiter and the Andromeda galaxy from the house. We have 60x magnification spotting scope of reasonable quality, but if you have high spec optics of your own, it would be worth bringing these with you.

Foraging

Gill (Jill) Fairweather runs foraging walks every Thursday from the Applecross Walled Garden restaurant car park at 9.30 - 11am. Gill doesn’t take pre-bookings, and you will need to pay her on the day: £15pp.

Other Places to Visit

The iconic and very photogenic red roof cottage is half a mile from the house heading west.

Cuaig beach at low or on an outgoing tide. This is a local hidden gem for a wild swim and more sheltered than Sand beach. Access is not obvious, there’s an access track starting from here.

The Torridon, fantastic 19th century baronial hunting lodge and formerly Beinn Damph house. See also places to eat and drink.

Sand beach, just north of Applecross.

Further afield but each within a comfortable day trip from the house:

• The drive around loch Maree to Gairloch.

• Drive to Achnasheen via Kinlochewe. There is a fantastic view point at the top of Glen Docherty which looks out across loch Maree and Slioch. The Midge Bite cafe in Achnasheen is worth a visit for lunch or a coffee.

• Attadale House and Gardens a short distance beyond Lochcarron.

• The rather famous coastal village of Plockton and surrounds.

• Another famous landmark is the much photographed Eilean Donan Castle near Dornie, often seen in blockbuster films set in Scotland. Nearer to Lochcarron there are the ruins of the 15th century Strome Castle which was blown up after a siege in 1602 and left to ruin since.

• Isle of Skye - we could also write many pages about Skye but a couple of highlights by car on a longer day trip are a visit to Sligachan and the Trotternish peninsula. From Sligachan you can walk in the glen leading to the impressively rugged Cuillin hills and there’s an iconic pub at the road junction. Further north, the impressive rock formation the Old Man of Storr is at the southern end of the Trotternish ridge. Alternatively, take the left fork in the road from Sligachan and head to Carbost where you will find the Talisker Distillery. Driving time from the house to Sligachan is about 1hr 45 mins. Skye has lots of other places to visit and also some really good restaurants & cafes including some with Michelin stars. It can be difficult to get a table in the high season, so ring in advance to make a booking to avoid disappointment.

Arts & Crafts

The Blue Roof Studio is in Shieldaig run by artist Lisa Fenton

Janene Waudby has a studio in Shieldaig creating ceramic art

Loch Torridon Community Centre has an extensive selection of local art and prints for sale. They also hold live events and cinema screenings.

Andy Moys is a local landscape painter and exhibits through the community centre

Steve Carter has also compiled a list of arts and craft businesses in the area (some of this information may be dated.)

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Whatever your interests, there’s a broad range of activities you can engage in locally. We’ve listed a few here to chose from.

Shieldaig Outdoor Adventures operates a loch and mountain guiding outfit. You can book guided walks, hill climbs or kayak trips, or rent kayaks and equipment for your own use. We love Jack Boniface’s video featuring Shieldaig and Tom Tindale who runs this very grounded local business, see below.

Mountain & Sea Guiding offer mountaineering and sea kayaking trips and are based in Applecross.

The Torridon Outdoor centre is based out of The Torridon. They offer walks, mountain guiding, sea kayaking, mountain biking, snorkeling and bike/wetsuit hire.

Skye Ghille offers fishing, foraging, stalking and wild walks. As the name suggests, he’s based on Skye.

Donald McDonald Tours offers guided touring throughout the area. Take a look at his website to see if anything catches your interest.

Fishing can also be arranged through Beinn Damph estate, or through Attadale. For other local fishing options (if you have all your own equipment,) get in contact with us.

Torridon Sailing Tours run a yacht charter operation from Shieldaig with half or full day tours available.

Reraig Forest Estate manage an impressive herd of red deer and offer off-road tours to see the animals in their natural environment.

Golf? Of course, this is Scotland. There’s a 9-hole course at Lochcarron.

For landscape or wildlife photography there are almost limitless opportunities for you. Take a look at Steve Carter’s website for inspiration.

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We’ve listed most local places here. Booking ahead is essential for any of the restaurants/pubs, and some will only operate seasonally, so please check in advance to avoid disappointment.

Shieldaig

• The Shieldaig Bar and Coastal Kitchen - good pub fare, seafood platters and pizzas

• Nanny’s cafe - a local icon; breakfast, lunch, coffee & cake. The squat lobster sandwich is a firm favourite if on the menu (catch dependent)

• The Delicious Food Van - a mobile takeaway kitchen based out of Shieldaig, operated by Chef Linas

Annat, Torridon & Diabaig

• The Torridon (in the high season their restaurants usually only cater to resident guests):

  • Bo & Muc - bistro style food in a Scottish lodge setting

  • 1887 Restaurant - fine dining with views to the Torridon mountains

  • Whiskey Bar - 350 malts and 120 gins

• The Wee Whistle Stop Cafe - located at the Torridon community centre. A mainstay of local life, especially Friday fish nights. By prior arrangement they will also make packed lunches to take with you on day trips or catered meals to takeaway and enjoy at the house.

• Torridon store & cafe - cakes, coffee and light lunch, attached to the general store.

• Gille Brighde - a terrific meal to be had at this Diabaig favourite

Kinlochewe & Achnasheen

• Kinlochewe Hotel - traditional Scottish pub food at The Stag Highland Restaurant

• The Midge Bite Cafe - roadside pit-stop popular on the NC500

Applecross

• The Walled Garden Cafe & Restaurant - a lovely peaceful place with a terrific menu

• The Applecross Inn - great pub fare and seafood. The outdoor seating is right on the water at high tide.

• The Inn-Side Out trailer - run by the Applecross Inn to provide a takeaway alternative if you have missed out on securing a table booking

• The Applecross Coffee Bothy

Kishorn & Lochcarron

• The Bealach Cafe & Gallery - another popular NC500 stop to calm the nerves before or after tackling the Bealach!

• Kishorn Seafood Bar - fresh, locally caught seafood

• Waterside cafe - straightforward, good value food

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We recommend that you bring most of your main provisions with you for your stay. We’d also love it if you support local businesses for top up provisions and regional produce. Shieldaig and Torridon have general stores where you can top up on essentials. Lochcarron, about 40 minutes from the house, has a larger Spar shop and general store with a more substantial selection. The best options for a bigger shop are Tesco Extra in Inverness if coming from the east or the Coop in Kyle or Broadford if coming from Skye or the west. You can arrange a Tesco delivery to the house if you have a login and can secure a booking slot. Morrison supermarket also runs free click and collect service delivering to the Loch Torridon Community Centre (IV22 2EZ) on Monday from 1-4pm and Thursday from 4-7pm. Book a collection slot at morrisons.com and complete your order online.

There is a local seafood merchant (Loopy's Fish Van) who does the rounds every Tuesday and will stop off by prior arrangement. He can be contacted via WhatsApp on 07771 816 900 and also via his Facebook site. 

Morrison Butchers of Gairloch come by the coast road on Wednesdays. They can be contacted for pre-orders on morrisonbutchers@aol.com or 01445 712 485. Just let them know you're staying at the house and they will be able to drop by or they will let you know where to collect from. 

The Kishorn Kitchen run a catering service and will cater a special meal by prior arrangement.

Local smoked salmon and other fish products can be sourced from the Applecross Smokehouse who are located further along the coast road near Kenmore, or the Loch Torridon Smokehouse in Shieldaig.

Little Swallow Foods operate an honesty cupboard food box in Shieldaig for freshly baked bread, quiches, cakes and also chutneys & preserves.

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Petrol stations are limited on the west coast and you will need to plan when you fill up accordingly. Here are the most convenient locations to refuel if you are running low:

• Applecross community filling station - self service by credit/debit card only

• Kinlochewe Service Station

• Lochcarron - opposite the Spar food shop

If you breakdown or suffer an unrepairable flat tyre, you can call the Lochcarron garage who have an emergency call out towing service (24hr 01520 722 458.) They can be busy in the summer with the NC500 traffic on the single track roads.

The best way to avoid any issues whilst driving on single track roads is to follow a few simple rules - the locals will appreciate it greatly if you do:

1. Do not drive off the edge of the road to pass an oncoming car as this is the best way to burst your tyres and destroy the road edge. You or the other car should reverse to the closest passing place.

2. Allow traffic behind you to pass by stopping at a passing place and indicating to show that you are pulling over.

3. Space yourself out from other vehicles - multiple convoys approaching each other from opposite directions will result in an impasse at the passing place.

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